Speyside 1988 Selection XXVI, Le Gus't (1 per pax)

A little bird told that this could be either Ard***, or Mac*****. Colour: deep gold. Nose: it is not Ard***. Now, not all of these casks that I could already try have been out of this wee world, but you cannot do more classic well-aged sherry than this. Huge loads of toffee, coffee fudge, cherries in kirsch, roasted pecans, Corinthian currants, humidor, prunes, toasted brioche, a bit of butterscotch, coffee liqueur… In truth this is exactly the style of the old official 30, only with a little less citrus, and a little more toffee. With water: oh, moss, fern, leaves, tobacco and mushrooms, that's the kind of development we crave. Mouth (neat): intense, rich, with excellent caramel, a creamy mouth feel, some chestnut honey (my favourite), more cherries in kirsch, old bachelor's jam (remember what that is?), marmalade, pepper and cinnamon, touch of clove… With water: impeccable. Flawless old Speysider in the style of the best old Glen Grants or Longmorns by G&M, or indeed Mac*****. Finish: rather long, rather on orangey and coffeeish flavours. Which just always works. Comments: buy an old crystal decanter from eBay, transfer this juice, and indulge like a billionaire (the Lambo's not necessary).

SGP:662 - 92 points.