Mortlach 1995, Le Gus't

Le Gus't have acquired quite a reputation within just a few years. You'll also have noticed that this baby's been bottled at a rather Taliskerian strength (right, 80 British proof). Colour: deep gold. Nose: this one's very intriguing, with rather huge mushrooms and resinous woods at first, which is a little frightening I agree, then the blackest burnt molasses and various Asian sauces, teriyaki and such. It would then display more chestnuts (roasted) and cigars, old polished leather, and certainly some kind of glutamate-y, almost sulphury, earthy and rooty umaminess. Which should be pretty Mortlach, even if many Mortlachs nose fruitier and more floral. Big boy, if not a total beast (of Dufftown) yet. Echoes some early batches of the Flora & Fauna. Mouth: bone-dry oloroso, on bags of leather and tobacco, old walnuts, bitter chocolate, then chestnut honey and many roasted nuts. Bitter caramel, and lastly, even more tobacco, with hints of cinnamon and cracked pepper. Finish: medium, very dry, reminiscent of a very old dry Madeira, Malaga or something. Rather a lot of black tea too, especially in the aftertaste. Some salty bouillon as well, and indeed umami and more chestnut honey. Comments: this is Mortlach as in the books! Spectacular, if a little austere: I like it really a lot, it's a classic classic (you don't say!)
SGP:362 - 89 points.